2. Be Gentle
Your pair of Champion glasses is a precision instrument. There are moving parts, hinges, pliable parts, screws, rings...etc. DO NOT FORCE ANY PARTS IN ANY MANNER! When you are moving one part, hold on to the non-moving part that is closest to it to avoid mechanical stress. For instance, while turning the adjustment ring of the top lensholder anchor, hold on to the threaded frame that is closest to the anchor; while adjusting the silicone nosepad to fit your nose, hold on to the nosepiece stem....etc, you get the idea.
Also, while adjusting the position of the lensholders ( details later ), only tighten the screws enough so that the parts will not fall apart, do not tighten any screw until you are totally satisfied with the lens position. You can really tighten the screws only at the very end.

3. Use Care
Take care of your Champion glasses as you would your competition firearms. Cleaning is essential, especially the silicone nosepad and the earpieces. No part needs oiling.

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Sideway adjustment is done by loosening a set screw at the top of the nosepiece anchor, rotate the entire nosepiece along the threaded frame to the desired position, then tighten up the set screw again. After this adjust the nosepad back to the central position so it will sit on the nose.

(O, SO, W3, W4) While holding on to the anchor of the nosepiece, turn the blue adjustment ring to lower or raise the nosepiece stem to desired length. It is recommended that you start with the nosepiece in its shortest position.

Choose extra-long nosepiece ( available as optional accessory ) for rifle, regular nosepiece for pistol. The silicone nosepad can be twisted and bent to conform to the contour of your nose for a better fit.

(W3) Loosen the screw on the back of the nosepiece column, turn the entire nosepiece stem to adjust its position, then tighten the screw again to hold the stem in place. Start with the nosepiece in its shortest position.

(W4) Turn the knob on top of the nosepiece stem to loosen the nosepiece, slide it up and down to the desired position and tighten the knob again.

(W1) Nosepiece on these models are fixed and not adjustable.

2. Sides and Earpiece
(O, SO) Loosen the adjustment ring just enough to let you pull out ( or push in ) the earpiece to desired length. NOTE: stop only when you feel a slight "click". This is when the inside of the adjustment ring's lip catches onto the indented rings on the earpiece stem. Tighten the ring slightly. The earpiece should be able to rotate on its axis freely. Repeat the same for the other side.

(W1, W3, W4) The metallic sides with flexible spring earpieces are not adjustable, but they come in three different lengths should the standard sides are just too short or too long for comfort. Just loosen the screws and replace them with the optional sides. Alternatively, a special pair of sides with an adjustable elastic band ( embroidered with the Champion logo ) at the rear is available for best fit.

(O, SO) Elastic band sides are also available for Olympic, Olympic Offset, and SuperOlympic, with a slightly different design.

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(O, SO) The suggested way to put the glasses on starts with the nosepad. Open the sides of the glasses, gently position the nosepiece on the nose, then guide the two sides over to the back of your ears, turning the silicone earpieces outwards. Once the earpieces are behind the ears, let them spring back behind your ears. Push the earpieces inwards so that they hug against your head.

(W4, W3, W1) Other than the fact that the earpieces on these models cannot turn outwards and inwards, the way to put them on remains the same as Olympic Champion.

By this time your frame should be properly adjusted, the nosepad and the earpieces should fit snugly and comfortably on you.

2. Front and Back Adjustment

(O, SO) There are three holes on each lensholder assembly anchor. The right angle bar usually goes into the inner hole ( closest to the face ). Under certain circumstances you may want to move the lens further away from your face, e.g. you have installed the iris diaphragm and it is touching your eye-lashes. The outermost hole is for extra accessories, such as the polarized filter.

(W4, W3, W1) The standard sliding beam fitting has only one hole for the lensholder assembly to be attached into, or the eye shield for the non-aiming eye. An optional sliding beam fitting with two holes is available so that either two pieces of accessories can be fitted together, or the lens holder assembly can be moved further away from your face.

3. Horizontal Alignment

Important! Put on the glasses as mentioned above. Stand ( or lie down or kneel, as the case maybe for your particular event and firearm ) in front of a mirror and assume you proper shooting position looking into the mirror. The position you take up now must be exactly the same as you would in real shooting. All adjustment of your glasses are based on this position. If it is wrong, or you would use a different position in actual shooting, the adjustment you make now will not be of any good.

(O, SO) While holding onto the threaded part of the frame, turn the adjustment ring on the lensholder anchor on your aiming eye's side, so that it will slowly move over to the front of your aiming eye. Without changing your head position, look into the mirror and make sure that the lensholder is now centered with your aiming eye. It could be higher or lower, don't worry. We'll fix that later. But the lens holder MUST be centered, not to the left, not to the right.

(W4, W3, W1) Similar to above, but instead of turning the adjustment ring to move the lensholder, you have to first loosen the screw on the back of the sliding beam fitting, then slide the entire lens assembly over to the front of your aiming eye. Check in the mirror to see if the position is correct. If it is, hold on to the sliding beam fitting and the frame to maintain their relative position while taking the frame off. Tighten the screw on the sliding beam fitting. Put the frame back on and recheck the lensholder position.

( As you can see, one major advantage of the Olympic Champion series over the World series is the ease in making adjustments. No more loosen-take off-tighten-put on, again and again. )

4. Vertical Alignment

(O) If the lensholder is too high compared to your eye, loosen the screw on the lensholder anchor to slide the right angle bar down while looking into the mirror. Stop when the lensholder is centered with your eye. Tighten the screw on the lensholder anchor.

(O) If the lensholder is too low even if the right angle bar is at its top position, you can turn the adjustment ring on the nosepiece to extend it. This will raise the entire frame up.

(SO) Refer to the picture in our SuperOlympic page here. Turn knob "A" to adjust height of lensholder.

(W4, W3) If the lensholder is too high, loosen the screw on the sliding beam fitting to lower the right angle bar until lensholder is centered with your eye.

(W4, W3) If the lensholder is too low even if the right angle bar is at its top position, you can loosen the screw on the back of the nosepiece stem, turn the nosepiece stem to lower it to the desire length by trial and error, then fix its position by tightening the screw again.

(W1) Loosen the screw on the side of the sliding beam fitting to slide the vertical bar up or down to the center the lensholder with your eye. Tighten the screw when the position is correct.

Now the lenholder should be centered with your aiming eye both horizontally and vertically.

5. Angular adjustment on a vertical axis

(O, W4, W3, W1) Loosen the screw holding the connection block to the lower section of the angle bar or the vertical bar, slowly turn the block and the lensholder along the vertical axis until the lensholder is perpendicular to your line of vision. Remember: you must be in a correct shooting position now, or else the adjustment has no meaning at all. Tighten the screw just enough to hold its position.

(SO) Refer to the picture in our SuperOlympic page here. Turn knob "C" to rotate lensholder.

6. Tilt adjustment on a horizontal axis
(O, W4, W3, W1) Loosen the screw on the connection block holding the horizontal stem of the lensholder. Adjust the forward and backward tilt until the lensholder is perpendicular to your line of vision. Your head position must be the same as you would be shooting. It would be helpful if you have a friend standing by your side to help you check out the lens position for you.

(SO) Refer to the picture in our SuperOlympic page here. Turn knob "B" to adjust lensholder tilt.

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The lens should be correctly positioned in front of your aiming eye. When you assume your correct shooting position ( be it standing, kneeling, or prone ) and aim at the target, you should now be looking through the center area of the lens perpendicularly.

If you had done quite a bit of angular and/or tilt adjustment, you may notice that the horizontal and vertical alignments may be a little bit off now. This is normal.

(O, SO) For the Olympic Champion series, all you need to do is to turn the adjustment ring on the nosepiece to fine tune the vertical alignment, and the adjustment ring on the frame to fine-tune the horizontal alignment, these being done while you are wearing the glasses.

On the SuperOlympic, you can turn the other two micrometers to fine tune the vertical rotation and the tilt.

(W4, W3, W1) For the World series models, this fine tuning is done by loosening the respective screws to re-align for vertical and horizontal positions, then tighten up the screws again.

In order to check for the perfect alignment, you can clip the centering device onto the lensholder. You should be able to see through the tunnel in the centering device and see light on the other end of the tunnel. If you cannot see light, the lensholder has not been adjusted correctly. In this case you have to check each alignment step carefully to identify which setting is off, then correct it.

To achieve the perfect alignment is a very tedious and time consuming process. It is just like trying to shoot inner tens. But it is worth the effort. Once the fitting is done, it will help you shoot better for a long time to come.

Once you have decided that you are 100% satisfied with all the settings, and everything is checked and double-checked and triple-checked to be correct, TIGHTEN ALL SCREWS! This is to ensure your effort will not be wasted should you accidentally knocked the lensholder loose and off its position.

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The nosepiece has some free play, i.e. it may wiggle very slightly. This is normal. This allows better fit to your nose. Notice how the nosepads on ordinary glasses wiggle? Same here.

There are two tiny screws holding the nosepad to the base block of the nosepiece stem. These screws may come loose over time due to the movement of the nosepiece mentioned above. In order not to loose these screws ( costs you money to replace! ) the following steps should be followed. First, remove the screws and the silicone nosepad completely from the base block. Then place a small drop of nail-polish into each of the two screw holes in the base block. Use a pin to work the nail-polish in. It is okay if some of the nail-polish spills out onto the surface of the base block. Then replace the nosepad and the screws. Tighten just enough to hold the nosepad in place. ( Over-tightening will damage the silicone layer on the nosepad. ) The nail-polish helps to hold the screws in place. Check periodically. Repeat the process when needed.

(W1) The World 1 has plastic nosepads on fixed nosepiece stems. There is only one screw holding the nosepad to the base of the nosepiece stem, and it does not usually come loose because it does not wiggle. Apply nail-polish as above only if the need arises. Just clean the plastic part periodically to get rid of oil and sweat from the nose.

2. Earpiece
(O, SO, W4, W3) The earpiece ends have silicone sleeves to provide non-slip hold. Keep these sleeves clean by removing any oil and sweat coming from the ears.

After a while the earpiece ends will become loose and will not hug to the back of your ears as tightly as before. To improve hug, simply wrap the earpiece ends around the tip of your index fingers tightly, hold for a few seconds, and then let go. The ends will return to their former shape and will hug to your ears better.

When the silicone sleeves on the earpiece ends eventually breaks due to the corrosive actions of sweat, oil, and normal wear and tear over time, they can be replaced as a pair.

While adjusting the length of the earpiece / side combination, always tighten the adjustment ring only when the inside lips of the rings catch onto the indented rings of the earpiece stems. Doing it otherwise will damage the lips and the sides will not be able to hold securely onto the earpieces.

(W1) The flexible metallic ends on these sides are prone to rust if they are not cleaned properly after use. Keeping them clean and free of moisture will extend their service life.

The elastic band with embroidered Champion logo can be cleaned by hand-washing in lukewarm water, remove excess water by patting between towels, and then hang dry. You probably don't want to find out if it can be cleaned in your washer and dryer at home!

3. Frame
(O, SO) Whenever you are turning the adjustment rings, hold on to the frame at a nearest location for support. This will reduce mechanical stress to the joints.

Keep the threaded parts of the frame clean.

Do not force any of the three anchors. If the anchors come loose as a result of being forced, it may be beyond repair.

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The combi-shield can be used on either side for shooters with either left or right aiming eye. It is installed on the outside hole of the lens assembly anchor (O, SO) or the sliding beam fitting with 2 holes (W4, W3), if a lens assembly is present for the non-aiming eye. Otherwise it can be installed in any suitable position.

The gray shield should be on the outside ( facing the target ), and the translucent shield on the inside.

With the new ISSF rules the combi-shields are limited to maximum 30 mm width. A new ISSF compliant combi-shield is available for this purpose.

2. Side shields
(O) The semi-oval shields are specifically designed for the Olympic Champion, but they can also be used for other models if you wish. There are two groups of three plastic bits on each shield, forming a channel with a circular interior for the front end of the sides of the Olympic to slide into. You can snap the sides into these bits, but it is not advised since this will wear them out faster. Once installed, the glasses can rest, with both sides open, on the bench top with the flat end of the shields facing down. The lenses or the eye-shield will not touch the bench top.

(W4, W3, W1) The quarter-circular shield are designed to hang from the flat sides of these models. It will not fit the Olympic.

All shields must be taken down before storing the glasses into its carrying case.

3. Iris diaphragm
Iris diaphragms are specific for either left or right eye, as well as lenholder sizes. They are not interchangeable.

An iris diaphragm should be installed between the lens and the eye, and not in front of the lens.

First, remove the screw on the lensholder while holding the lensholder together to prevent the lens from dropping out of the ring. Insert the screw through the small tubing on the side stem of the iris, then re-install the screw into the lensholder. Swing the iris into the center area of the lens. Tighten the screw to secure the iris in place. You can slightly loosen the screw to swing the iris out of the way when you wish to clean the lens.

4. Colour filters
Colour filters should go in front of the lens. They are size specific for the lensholders.

All colour filters have a spring mechanism for easy installation and removal. It is recommended to first engage the two small hooks onto the top part of the lensholder while opening the spring, then engage the spring at the bottom part of the lensholder. This way the colour filter will not fall even in the unlikely event that the spring fails to catch the bottom of the lensholder. Reverse the above steps to remove the colour filter.

5. 0.25 correction lens
These lenses are for minor diopter adjustments due to variations in lighting conditions or for use with different firearms. They are size specific.

These lenses are of the same construction as colour filters - spring loaded, therefore the installation and removal procedures are the same.

6. Centering device
Centering devices are size specific, and they are installed the same way as colour filters and diopter correction lens with the spring action. They are for checking lens fitting, and should be taken off while shooting.

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