Last updated 2017.05.31.

How do you use the magnetic filter system?
Please refer to the attached picture as I answer your questions.

Setting up the magnetic filter system involves removing your lens from your existing lensholder and install it into the 25mm magnetic lensholder, shown in upper left in the picture. You will see 3 little round black dots around the lensholder ring, those are the magnets. This lensholder can be used whether you use filters or not, the magnets do not interfere with the lens in any way.

The second step is to add the magnetic filter holder to the magnetic lensholder, shown in upper right in the picture. This is the gray plastic ring with 3 corresponding magnets and a slot in the middle to hold the filters. This filter holder can be attached to (or removed from) the magnetic lensholder while you are wearing the glasses and the position is guaranteed to be correct due to the magnets.

The filters in the picture are, left to right in the middle row: orange, brown, gray; then left to right in the bottom row: yellow, 25% purple, 40% purple. I have an article explaining the use of different filters in various lighting conditions. Please see: Those are guidelines, since no two persons have the exact same eyes or perceive color the exact same way, the effects of each filter may differ slightly from person to person.

Each filter is inserted into the slot in the middle of the gray plastic magnetic filter holder with the convex surface facing forward (target side), then put on in front of the lensholder using the magnets. When you need to change a filter, you have to take the filter holder off (but no need to remove your glasses), slide the filter out, slide another filter in, clean the lens, then put it back on the magnetic lensholder.

When you remove or insert the filters, you have to hold the front and back of the lens with your fingers using a piece of microfiber cloth to protect the lens surface. The same cloth, if clean, may be used to wipe the lens every time it is used.

The plastic filter holder when new is quite tight. The filters do not just freely drop in and drop out. You don't want a loose filter holder where filters can fall out of it accidentally. You have to push firmly, using a slight rotation or wiggly motion. Over time, once the plastic is conditioned, inserting and removing filters will be easier.

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How do you put this new iris on with a filter in front?
The iris was apparently designed to be used by itself alone and not with clip-on filters. But there is a way to get around it and get them both on the lensholder ( that's how I set it up when I ship your glasses, remember? ). It will take a bit of patience and practice, but it is doable.

Here's how I did it:
First put the filter on in front of the lensholder. Use one hand to hold both the filter and lensholder rings so that these two rings are separated as far as the three little hooks allow, leaving a gap in between them. Then carefully insert the clip on the iris to the lensholder making sure the tip gets inserted in between the filter ring and the lensholder ring. Maintain the position of the filter and then insert the second clip of the iris onto the lensholder. Check the position of both the lensholder and the filter. At this point the filter ring might by tipped to one side slightly, correct it with a finger so it remains parallel to the lensholder, then insert the third clip of the iris onto the lensholder. All three tips of the iris clips should be inserted between the filter and the lensholder. Please the attached sketch.

If you try to put the iris on first, it will be even more difficult to put the filter on afterwards, that is my experience. But if you find it easier for yourself the other way around, then good for you - whatever works, works :-) The basic idea is that you try to provide as much space as possible in between while you insert the plastic clips.

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I have 20/20 vision. Do I need shooting glasses?
Shooting glasses can help a shooter focus on the front sight ( in pistols ) or the target ( in rifle ) easier. With properly prescribed lens and correct adjustment of the lens position on the shooting glasses, the shooter can see the sight / target picture with much less effort than without. For instance, a pistol shooter should focus on the front sight and leave the target slightly blurred. A shooter with 20/20 vision can see both clearly, too clearly, although not at the same time. A lens with intermediate range prescription will limit the focus on the sights, and the shooter, no matter how hard he/she tries now, cannot focus on the target. This eliminates the chances of the target being a distraction and reduces mid-ranging. The shooter can then concentrate on the front sight and shoot. Besides, there are other devices on the shooting glasses that can help in different shooting situations, such as adjustable iris diaphragms, various colour filters, eye-shields for the non-aiming eye, side shields to block off stray light from the side, to name a few. Each of these devices has its own specific purpose, and they can only be utilized when a pair of shooting glasses is used.
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Why should I buy Champion glasses? They are so expensive and there are cheaper ones.
Just like anything else in life, quality does not come cheap. Olympic Champion is the first shooting glasses frame to use titanium. This makes the frame stronger and yet lighter. On this frame there are three adjustment rings that allow fine adjustment of the lens-holders ( on either side ) as well as the height of the nose-piece WHILE THE SHOOTER IS WEARING THE GLASSES. Think of the convenience and ease of use. No other makes allow this. The lens connection assembly has 3 screws allowing adjustment of the lens in 6 different directions, a combination of which will be the perfect relative positioning of the lens and your aiming eye. Also, the axis of tilt is just above the lens-holder and not on the frame, which is much higher, minimizing the deviation of eye-lens distance during tilt adjustment. Champion offers a very extensive line of accessories to support your use of the glasses, hence the SYSTEM. Most accessories are interchangeable from one model to the other, so if you started out with a cheaper model and later wanted to move up to the Olympic Champion, you can do so with minimal changes. You have room for growth. All in all, like the saying goes, " you get what you paid for". Shooting is a sport for excellence. Best, and nothing but the best. Would you settle for a 9 instead of a 10? Same applies to your choice of equipment.
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If Champion glasses are so good, will they last a lifetime?
It depends on how you use them. These glasses are precision instruments. They should be treated with a great deal of care. During set-up, screws should never be tightened unless the position of the pieces you are adjusting is PERFECT. Once tightened, the screw will make an indentation in the counterpart to guarantee its returning to the same spot every time if they should ever come loose. Therefore it is not possible to make another indentation just a tiny bit away from the original one. No part of the glasses should be forced. When cleaning the lenses, hold the lens holder at the nearest joint ( screw ) to reduce stress. Do not force the fixtures on the frame ( one for nose-piece, two for lens-holder assembly ) in anyway or in any direction, purposely or otherwise, or they will come loose. There are two parts that might need replacement once in a while, depending on usage. One is the silicone nose bridge ( cat. No. 41013 / 41015, on the Olympic ). It should be cleaned of oil from the nose periodically to maintain hold. You may want to put in a small drop of nail polish into the holes for those two tiny screws holding the silicone bridge to the base of the nose piece to ensure they stay securely in place. The second ones are the sides with silicone ends ( cat. No. 41100 , on the Olympic ). The silicone sheath will eventually be worn out due to heat and sweat and constant stretching. Frequent cleaning will extend their lives. In conclusion, remember these tips : 1. Be gentle, never force anything, 2. Keep the glasses clean.
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I shoot both pistol and rifle. Can Champion glasses do both jobs for me?
Suppose you are using the same aiming eye and same triggering finger, you would have to look at opposite directions when you aim for either discipline. For example, a right-eyed and right-handed shooter will look towards right for pistol shooting and left for rifle shooting. While all models of Champion shooting glasses has the flexibility of letting you readjust the position of the lens assembly from one side to the other to suit your different aiming directions, it would also mean a disturbance to the finely tuned position that you had spent an hour or more to achieve in the beginning. In other words, it can be done. But the question is: do you really want to do it? Moving it from one side to the other and then readjust all the positions of the lens assembly could risk losing the perfect set up you had before. Besides, doing it every time when you switch from pistol to rifle or vice versa means placing a lot of mechanical stress to you glasses. Over time this may shorten the service life of your glasses. My recommendation is to have two different sets of glasses for two different disciplines. For three position rifle shooters, there may even be the need for different glasses for different shooting positions, such as prone vs. standing.
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Should I use coloured filters and how should I choose which one to use?
The choice and use of coloured filters has always been a subject of discussion among shooters of all disciplines. Some coaches absolutely forbid their shooters to use any. Some have favourites ones to suggest. Once again, it is a question of striking a balance between general guidelines according to physical properties of different coloured lenses and personal feelings. Generally speaking, if a coloured filter can improve your aiming ability without causing undue stress on your eyes, then it is the right one to use. Here are some properties of different coloured filters:
  1. Yellow and orange filters, light to medium densities:
    • ...absorbs violet, provides clearer bull's eye outline, accepted by most shooters.
  2. Dark brown or gray filters, light to medium densities:
    • ...absorbs entire spectrum, reduces glare from directly sun-lit targets, the yellow portion impedes violet.
  3. Neutral gray with green shading:
    • ...impedes violet to a lesser extent than gray filters, but the green portion is pleasant to the eye for some shooters.
  4. Dark yellow, orange, and yellow green filters:
    • ...brings out contrast, most suitable on sunny / overcast days, hazy but bright conditions, or early morning or late afternoon.
  5. Yellow green, medium to high density:
    • ...removes excessive brightness.
  6. Polarized filters:
    • ...when two polarized filters are rotated against each other, the amount of light passing through the lenses gradually changes. This allows infinite adjustment of filtering density to almost total darkness.
The proper use of coloured filters is also related to other personal factors:
  • age : older shooters may need more effort to focus, and stayed focused, on the target / front sight ( as the case may be );
  • eye condition : near- or far-sightedness, astigmatism,...etc;
  • sensitivity of eye : some people have eyes more sensitive to strong light than others ( e.g. must wear sunglasses outdoors or driving...etc);
  • psychological : " I just feel better this way... "
Champion currently supplies a series of high quality coloured filters made of coated optical glass. ( Glass is preferred to plastic because it has less distortion and is not as easily scratched. ) Each filter is fitted on a spring loaded clip-on lens holder, so that you can put the filter on or take it off in seconds, even while you are wearing the glasses.
Champion coloured filters come in three sizes ( 42mm, 32mm, and 25mm ) and six colours ( yellow, brown, gray, orange, purple, and polarized ). The Champion polarized filters are made of two rotating plastic films and they are installed on one of the three holes on the frame top carrier instead of being a clip on. While wearing it you can rotate one of the lens ring to achieve the desired degree of density. In the event that you want a custom-made coloured filter of your own, ( for example, one with a Serengeti lens! ) Champion offers you a clip-on lens holder without lens. So you can take this lens holder to your local optician and ask them to cut out a lens from your Serengeti sunglasses to fit your clip-on.......
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Even with the Olympic Champion I still can't quite get the lens to the right position when I shoot standing rifle because the nosepiece stem is in the way and the lensholder is not left enough. Any suggestions?
You are not alone. I received quite a few inquiries regarding extreme head positions when shooting rifle standing, and in archery. In these cases the shooter's or the archer's head position is much more sideways than others, and the lensholder must indeed be moved a lot to the center of the frame, right into where the nosepiece stem is. To solve this problem, Champion has designed the Olympic Offset/Archery frame. Instead of a fixed nosepiece stem it has a movable one. By loosening a holding screw you can rotate this stem around the threaded frame, very much like the lensholder anchors. This way it can be moved to the left ( if you are right eyed ) or right ( if you are left eyed ) as much as you want to make space for the lensholder. The offset stem is compensated by a reverse offset nosepiece, also fully adjustable for its positions. As a latest advancement in shooting glasses design, Champion has just introduced the new SuperOlympic, which represents the forefront of shooting glasses technology. The offset nosepiece is also available on the new World 4 frames.
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I obtained a shooting prescription and had a special lens made. But it still does not seem to be perfect. What could be the reasons?
The first thing I would check is the relief of the lens, i.e. the distance of the lens from your eye. The strength of the prescription changes with the relief. When you are at your eye doctor obtaining the prescription, make sure it is measured at a similar distance as your shooting lens. It is pointless to measure for your prescription at 1/4 inch and then wear shooting glasses with the lens 1-1/2 inches away. If you wear glasses, try pushing them away a few inches, and you will notice how the looks of things change. On the Olympic Champion frame there are three holes on the anchor, so that you can adjust the distance of the lens to your eye according to your needs by inserting the right angle bar in any one of the three holes.
The other thing I would check is the lighting condition. When the intensity of ambient light changes, the iris in your eye will change accordingly, thus affecting your focusing ability. To compensate for this variation, you can use coloured filters, polarized filters ( which allows infinitely adjustable intensity ), or the iris diaphragm. If you do not want any color changes or depth of field changes, Champion has a +0.25 and a -0.25 correction lenses you can clip onto your existing lens to achieve such a fine correction.
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What is the difference between the Olympic Champion and the World Champion glasses?
The major difference between the Olympic and the World Champion frame is:
Olympic: Titanium frame with micrometer adjustment for lenses and nosepiece. Very strong but light. Flexible tension-spring sides for snug fit. Adjustable ear-piece for maximum comfort.
World: Metal alloy. Screw and sliding block adjustments for lens holders and nose-piece. Fixed length ear-piece with coiled-spring ends.

Both use the same lensholder system and share most accessories, but the SuperOlympic uses a different lensholder that has a straight stem on the aiming eye side.
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What is the difference between the centering device and the iris?
The centering device is used when you first set up your new Champion glasses. Its function is to tell you if you have positioned the lens correctly in front of your aiming eye. If you have, then you should be able to look through the tunnel in the centering device and see light in the other end. If your lens is not centered in front of your pupil, or if the lens is not positioned squarely, then you are not looking perpendicularly through the lens and you will not see light, or very little light in an oval shape. Once the lens is positioned properly, the centering device should be remove from the glasses.
The iris, however, is to be left on the glasses, between the lens and your eye. By adjusting the size of the opening of the iris, you will attain varying degrees of clarity. This is due to the change of depth of field. Depending on your eye sight, the environment, and even your physical condition, you may have to adjust the iris differently every time you shoot in order to come to the desired sight picture. Note that closing the iris all the way down may not necessarily be the best for you. You just have to experiment a bit.
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How do I choose from all the different models of Champion glasses?
Shooting glasses is not like your pistol. With pistols you want to start out with cheaper ones, and then upgrade to an expensive one when your technique matures. A more expensive pistol ( .22 or air pistol alike ) usually have advanced features that only experienced shooter will appreciate, just like fine wine from the vintage.

With shooting glasses, you should start out with the best you can afford. The reason is that once you have gone through the many steps to set up your glasses properly, you really do not want to do it all over again just because now you want to upgrade to a better set. One set of glasses is good for many years. Mine is twelve years old and is still excellent ( but that of course requires that you use it properly and takes good care of maintaining it in tip top condition ).

That said, our best glasses is the Olympic Champion. With the micrometer adjustments and titanium frame, there are no equals on the market. It is easy to set up, and it lasts for a long time.

The Olympic Offset Champion is designed for archers or rifle shooters in standing positions who use an extreme aiming position, and the lens must be place right in the middle of the frame.

The cheaper version of that is the World Champion 2. This has an aluminium frame instead of titanium, and adjustment is by set screws and sliding blocks.

Please visit our pages to see the picture so you know how the different models look. Just click here .

Also, for articles telling you how to choose accessories, click here .

On how to set up the glasses when you got them, click here .

Once you read these pages, you should be able to make up your mind as to what you should buy.

As far as our selling record shows, most people who are serious enough to buy shooting glasses to improve their shooting go for the Olympic Champion. The reason is simple: If they want to settle for something less, how would they expect themselves to excel? It is simply a state of mind.

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What comes with an Olympic Champion set? What other parts should I buy?
The Olympic Champion set you see in the price list consist of the following:
1 Olympic Champion frame
1 lens-holder assembly for the aiming eye
1 combi-shield for the non-aiming eye
1 Allen screw-driver
1 plastic carrying case.
This is the basic set-up most people can start with.

For those who needs to wear prescription glasses, they may want to purchase an extra lens-holder assembly for the non-aiming eye, so they can do other things at the bench such as loading the magazine, sighting the scope...etc. while they are not shooting.

People with astigmatism may want to purchase the adjustable iris diaphragm to help obtain the best possible image.

When you shoot outdoors in bright sun light you may want to have the grey or brown filters. In overcast days you may want yellow or orange filters.

If you are not wearing a shooting cap and want to block off extra side light or help your concentration, you may want the side shields.

During the initial set up process you may want the centering device to help you determine if your lens is located perfectly center with your aiming eye.

These are the most common accessories people would want to purchase. Some bought everything together to save shipping charges, some buy them one piece at a time when they feel there is the need. Whether you need all these at once must be decided by none other than yourself, because you know your own needs best.

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What is new with the SuperOlympic?
The SuperOlympic has added a set of micrometers to simplify the process of making lens adjustments including height, rotation, tilt...etc. Before the SuperOlympic these adjustments must be made with the glasses taken off. Now all can be done while the shooter is wearing the glasses on the firing line.

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